The second ferry of my cycle trip takes place at a quaint Danish town called Stubbekobing to another Danish town called Bogø. This was a very small ferry route. 15 minutes from one island to another. As I reached the other side, I didn’t see much of Bogø because I got off the ferry and just pedaled on wards.
After couple of weeks on the road – cycling & camping I found myself getting used to the lifestyle and loving it. Hence, it was a really grievous matter that I had totally only 17 days on the road, which meant just 2-3 more days to go before I head to Copenhagen (either reach it by bike or take a train or such quicker transport).
Faxe Ladeplads was one of the many quaint and charming coastal towns I passed through in Denmark and it was one of the last such towns on my cycling trip. I was on my way to Rodvig (or even Koge if I could manage a longer ride that day. Koge being 40 km or so from Copenhagen). However, it turned out that my distaste of buying water bottles from supermarkets bit me in my back. I ended up being dehydrated as I didn’t have enough water the previous day and got leg cramps. I had never got such leg cramps before so for a while I was really concerned but then a friendly German guy biking with his family came to my rescue. He lent me some water and told me that cramps are okay, you just have to drink more water and it should be ok. 🙂Continue reading
As I have mentioned earlier in my Berlin to Copenhagen cycle story that from Stubbekobing to Stege was the maddest day in the entire cycling trip! I wanted to cycle 70-80 km that day but managed a very hard 25 km. It was too windy! Later when I checked the weather, I figured the winds had been 45km/hr that day. This windy meant that if I put my cycle on the stand it will topple, if I am cycling at the side of the road I get pushed into the middle of the road, when going downhill I need to peddle, peddle hard!
At all times the wind was pushing at me from every direction. There are no glass windows like in a car or a strong helmet with a screen in a motorbike. It is just me and my cycle. #Phew that was one hard day but also awesome – I had never experienced nature in all its magnanimity. 🙂Continue reading
I had just finished my first long distance cycling trip. Solo cycling & camping from Berlin to Copenhagen, 550 kms in 17 days. 17 days in the European countryside, a dreamy solitude. I was to now spend a week with my parents in the country they really wanted to visit – Switzerland.
Having enjoyed and cherished my solo cycling travels to the maximum I really wondered how I would find a similar joy and thrill in the Swiss Mountains. I usually prefer going for offbeat more quaint and unknown type of places rather than most tourist-popular Switzerland – so I was not sure how touristy this country would be. I was already unpleasantly aware of how expensive it was – having found all accommodation already booked or 3 times more expensive than most other places in Europe.Continue reading
Quite a while and I haven’t written much about my Europe trip. Lot of posts need to be written, a lot of people want to know about my expenses and budget and all that. Today I am more in the mood for prose, so writing about Day 1: Cycling Berlin to Copenhagen….
This was the day I was slated to leave my Berlin AirBnB homestay and cycle away! 😉
My home stay hostess was away traveling so I had the place to myself, we hadn’t fixed any time to leave, I wanted to be away as soon as I could, but I knew it will not be so easy. Because the 12 days I had in Berlin to buy all my gear and stuff were a bit less. So much so that, I had bought my camping gear just couple of days earlier and just the night before I had fixed the front pannier rack all by myself (beejesus!)Continue reading
Leaving Berlin to be on the road solo-cycling was a crazy feeling. The most unusual feeling was of not having a specific accommodation booked for the end of day. I was really thrilled but also curious how this trip would pan out. I cycled away chatting with strangers and getting attention as not only a solo cyclist but also an Indian one. Most people even in the most obscure towns recognized that I was Indian – I still don’t understand how considering they had never seen a solo Indian girl cycling. At many of the campsites that I stayed at, I was told that I was the first Indian to do so.
So as I reached my first award winning, heritage campsite – Oranienberg Harbor – I asked a German couple how to enter the campsite. I could see the site but there was a gate barring my way and I needed a card to enter it. The couple didn’t speak English. I anyway pursued the conversation by sign language. The lady was really affected and she started responding in sign language. It was not that tough. Basically I had to go to an office a little way away – I understood that I had to go in that direction. 🙂
There was a whole drama at the office because the harbor master was out and the auto-card-machine wasn’t working but finally I sorted all that out. I went back to the campsite and entered. I saw that couple relaxing outside their caravan. Looking around, I decided to put up my tent near them as the lady was really helpful and it was a good location.
So as I was setting up my tent nearby, the lady came around to ask if everything was fine. I didn’t understand much. I was really tired, smiled, sad ‘gut, gut’ and went to sleep. Snoooze.
I figured the lady found me quite an enigma – Indian, solo, doesn’t speak German – what is she doing out here! But since we didn’t know each others language, I thought it would be an end of it. But not so. The other day the lady beckoned me and starting asking me questions. I tried to answer cause I understand a bit of German. Since English & German have similar roots there are words that overlap….. but definitely not enough to actually converse. Anyway, she managed to find out that this was my first trip to Europe. I had solo traveled a lot in India which is very difficult but Europe is easy so I was doing this Berlin-Copenhagen cycling trip. She was really struck. She told me she respected me a lot. And then obviously she really wanted to talk.
So finally I decided to drop my reticence and get into this. This lady wants to talk German with me, well this is the 20th Century and I have the technology for this. I dug out my smart phone, known as “handy” in Germany and opened up Google translate. Yes, I had not researched any better app.
So out comes Google Translate – I started typing in English, translated in German and put it on audio so she could actually listen to it. She found it all quite interesting. It was then her turn to type – so she typed in German and translated to English. She wasn’t savvy with the phone but she managed.
So this way I found myself having some quite deep conversation with this German speaking lady using Google translate. It was pretty crazy. I was telling her about how the British occupation of India had caused so many changes in our cultural fabric that it was getting so tough to really gets things back on track. The fact that we need to know English – which is a foreign language for our economic growth creates a lot of challenges. Because the language of the person influences his/her thinking and so inevitably there is a conflict. Because in our culture and heart we are Indian while via Language and thoughts we are getting ‘Westernized’… this is probably because for many days I was tackling with this issue within myself. That how can Indian culture and the Western influence in urban areas be sorted out? She did find it a little intriguing…. as she didn’t understand such a thing. The German people have no issue of corroding culture as in most of those European countries their own language Rules!
Anyway the conversation just went to all sorts of topics. And yes, Google translate was quite a limited tool I wish I could have found a better one but it was a really worthwhile effort. This lady who would have been just a helpful German lady became a Travel Friend.
Next couple of days we didn’t get much chance to sit down and talk again because she fell sick, probably got a sun stroke but she always watched out for me. Just before I was leaving she came to meet me and gave me a shopping bag to take with me. In case I wanted to shop anything. 🙂
I asked her if she had an email id I could write to, so we can keep in touch. She went to ask her husband for one, but he got completely freaked out. I was just mildly curious – what’s this now?! I thought it was standard to exchange contact info with friends on the road 🙂
Anyway she came back some time later and got me her address. So I will be writing her a letter now… but I wanted to blog this story before that. I meet so many people on my road… I would like to keep such stories to read through later on. Hope you also enjoy reading. 🙂
I later found out after meeting more German people that they are completely paranoid about giving personal information – in fact that is why a lot of them are not on Facebook or any other social network. So this is why her husband freaked out when I asked his email. Hehe.
And in case you are wondering – no I didn’t get any photo with her. I am a very reticent photographer and I really don’t click selfies.
Ride 3 from Zehdenick to Furstenberg Havel. One of the most scenic routes so far. A little overwhelmed with the beauty and solitude on the road – hunger was a constant companion (because I was keen on an early start so left without eating anything). I pulled in for food at this little town called Himmelpfort. No major reason to stop here but cafes are not so common when I am cycling only 40 or so km daily. So I stopped at this cafe which seemed very popular in this town of Himmelpfort.
Vaguely I remember seeing some Santa Claus banner while entering but didn’t pay much attention – though it was odd to have christmassy stuff in the month of August! Anyway, I proceeded into the cafe – and then the big Q was: what am I going to eat? I told the lady at the counter – Vegeeeetaaarish.
I want Vejjjjeeeeetaaarish food. Veeegaaan? Vegetaarish?
*She tells me some dish names in German*
Does it have egg? No egg. Vegetarish with no egg.
ehh, … Yes, egg!
Errr….moment. *shouts something in German into the kitchen*
I am just standing around. Wondering whether I have been dismissed. Usually ‘moment’ means ‘one moment’ So I am waiting. Then thankfully another German lady comes to me and she knows decent English. Phew. She suggested me a potato dish. Apparently it was just potato n cheese.
I ordered it. This culture of eating cheese like a main course item is very unusual for me because in India we consider it fattening and somewhat unhealthy. Paneer (cottage cheese), Ghee, Curd are all considered healthier. However cheese is like a staple in many of these European countries. So here in Himmelpfort, I found a typical German vegetarian dish which I had quite often on the road – Potatos & Cheese!
Finally feeling a bit satiated and guzzling down couple of Ginger Ales I decided to inquire into that Santa Claus postcards & banners I had seen earlier. Now this is an interesting conversation,
“Why do I keep seeing the Santa Claus here? For eg on this postcard?”
“well, you know this is Himmelpfort! This is where Santa Claus lives”
*Feeling like fish floundering without water* “Err what do you mean ‘lives’ here”
“Well you know as the legend goes…. this is where he stays. When kids want to write to the Santa, they all address it to Himmelpfort!”
“Err what about North Pole?”
“Err Nothing…. *stunned*”
“You know Santa lives right behind this cafe. This is where he reads his letters and even replies to them”
*Finally coming around* “Aah that is interesting, I will definitely go and see it 🙂 “
Bought one of the postcards as keep sake from Santa’s town. At least the German Santa’s town 😉
You know often exposed only to the ‘western’ media which originates in US or UK we assume things are a certain way. But when traveling other countries, things are different.
In Germany, Santa is from Himmelpfort and who can say otherwise?!
So I went and visited the lovely Santa cottage. A colourful room with a nice big veranda. Surrounded by green wilderness. In the near distance there was a big lake and boats. Families were picnicking there, I could here the sounds of kids laughter and water splashing.
In hindsight I think I should have inquired more into this activity but I found a very interesting article and I am so happy to know that this whole culture has humble routes.
Vegetarian is Vegetarish in German and Vegetar in Danish. I used these words frequently on my Europe trip, along with actions saying ‘No Egg’ too. Because Vegetarish includes Egg, while we Indian vegetarians don’t have egg.
Some kindly soul suggested that it would be easy for me to get a vegetarian Pizza. & it is one of my favourite dishes. 🙂
Sometimes I would pick a non-veg pizza and ask them not to put the non-veg toppings but usually even in the smallest towns they have a ‘Vegetar Pizza’ for us vegetarians. I found it simpler to order this rather than ask to change toppings because there is some language problem and I didn’t want them to be confused about what is supposed to go in the pie!
In Germany I first came across the idea of potato as a topping on the Pizza – the Germans not just love Potato but they consider it a main food item like rice or noodles.
So in a witch-themed cafe in a little German town, I had one of my first Vegetarish Pizza,
So if you thought that was as elaborate, it gets better, check this one out. It has over 6 ingredients including pineapple, mushrooms and artichokes. I would never have imagined such combos!
I usually had only one big meal a day, so such a filling pizza was worth it. Couple of pieces would generally be left over so I would pack it and have it as a second light meal later.
The one below was at a little town called Faux Ladlepads in Denmark. The Italian restaurant was run but a guy from Kurdistan. Usually when people mention a country I know something about it – but I knew nothing about Kurdistan except that the people there are called Kurds. ;D
He barely knew English, so I just pointed at Vegetar pizza & fries to place order. & like a typical vegetarian I confirmed with him few times “It is vegetar, yes? – no egg, no meat, no fish…”
Once in a while, I did opt for simpler toppings – just to get a feel of normalcy. Like this one – I just asked them to remove the non-veg topping. So I just got some mushrooms on it.
Thought I had seen every possible topping…. but no…
Oh Yea baby, we got some leaves…..
Is it a salad, is it a tree… no it is a Pizza! 😀
I now miss being surprised with such eclectic pizza toppings.
I also gave it a serious thought – why are the toppings so bizzare?
Considering that ‘vegetarian’ is something new in this culture – I guess they still haven’t got the idea that being ‘vegetarian’ doesn’t mean we just eat a bunch of vegetables. Vegetarians can be picky about the vegetables they eat. This is how a chef at one of the pizza places described the vegetarian Pizza – “Oh you know, it has a whole bunch of vegetables on it like zucchini and eggplant.” Oh yea that is what I got…
Also, they are trying to make it as heavy and filling as possible. Because they may probably feel like “Oh no meat… what do these poor dears eat?? Let’s put some potatoes and artichoke and pineapples and mushrooms and …… ”
I had spoken to cyclists here in Mumbai, got their tips. Also researched online. It is important to have clarity on what type of gear you need and things to check before buying. (I will be sharing my notes on gear for a long distance cycling trip a bit later)
So here is a summary of the various ways to search out good, recommended shops to actually buy the gear,
1) Thorough online search – “budget cycle in Berlin”, “used cycles in Berlin” and so on
2) Join relevant FB groups n communities – I joined biking Berlin groups, but didn’t get many suggestions there. It is still a good place to have discussions and share your experiences
3) Talk to locals – I contacted the owner of a Facebook Berlin cyclers group, got some of his thoughts. I also spoke to my AirBnB host and got views there as well. It helped.
4) Talk to local shops and get their recommendations – This is another way to get in touch with local enthusiasts, these people know the industry really well and so should be able to help. Sometimes it helps to talk to them to rule out options. For eg: To sell my cycle in Copenhagen I went about asking cycle shops whether they knew anyone who would buy it. Most refused. One person gave a very low offer – so I ruled out selling back to shops.
The place I finally bought my used bike – I didn’t see it mentioned in any group or web search. I got to know of it, as a recommendation from another cycle shop which was selling new bikes only.
So using the above three methods I shortlisted these places for used bikes in Berlin, Bike Piraten – this is where I got my bike. It would be my first stop next time I go there to get cycling gear
Bikers park – also had good deals and are reliable Mauer park flea market – apparently low quality (and possibly stolen) but if you get a good deal then you can really reduce your expense. This flea market takes place only on Sundays, and it was canceled the week I was there due to stormy weather. So you have to keep back up options.
Facebook groups where people put up stuff to sell – this is how I sold my stuff – the flip side is that you have to keep waiting to find the right product. For me, I needed a smaller cycle size. This was quite difficult in Europe – so groups like this are not the best option eBay Berlin – didn’t see much quality stuff here. And overall I find such places a bit shady to be honest. Maybe some good deals… I don’t really know. But I would prefer the above options over eBay. At least on Facebook I can check the persons profile information before meeting them
Once you explore all the above options, you will start getting ideas and recommendations to get rest of the cycling gear as well. These are some places I would mention in Berlin, Stadler – huge showroom n has some decent budget stuff as well. Helpful staff and a section where you can repair your cycle yourself
Supermarkets like Lidl & Woolworth have some really cheap accessories – worth saving few bucks on. For eg: reflectors n vests
Mauer park flea market 🙂 You can get cycle locks at half the price
Apart from these there are also many small bike shops which sometimes have sale… So those can be checked out..
Again followed a similar search process for camping stuff. I managed to find an online blog that had listed down shops that had good camping gear. I checked out all their online websites and figured out the most relevant shops for me.
Camping gear varies a lot depending on your trip details. For eg festival tents are cheaper but they wouldn’t be right for my trip. Other problem I faced is that while I could see many 4-5 people tents on eBay, there were none for 1 person or even 2 persons.
Also since I was a real camping newbie I figured going for cheap, new stuff would be better than buying 2nd hand and not realizing when there is something wrong with the tent or sleeping bag.
So finally I found these shops, Real.De – is a supermarket with a camping section.
Camp4.De – has some good options. I didn’t visit them though. MontK – this is where I bought my tent & sleeping mat n cooking kit. I got a 2 persons Coleman tent which cost me €85 as it was the cheapest decent camping tent. The single person tent was over € 100.
People in many of these shops were very helpful & they have thorough knowledge of what they are selling… In fact Thomas from MontK gave me so many suggestions about my trip – it was like a summary in 30 mins of all the research I had done online over many hours.
If you are a newbie then I think it is good to go to these respectable stores and get the person to give some gyaan (advise) – as they are really experienced people.
All in all my experience in Berlin was great. Through this trip gear-buying I got in touch with many people and came to know a bit about their culture. 🙂
With the ongoing 4 year civil war and the push from ISIS-islamic terror group from neighbouring Iraq, there is a huge flow of normal people wanting peace in Syria moving towards Europe. They are trying to get a bit of decent life for themselves and their families. Almost 4,000 are crossing into Hungary daily – in the hopes of getting to Germany or further and applying there for asylum.
The rules regarding applying for asylum is tricky. Europe’s Schengen – no border control zone – had a Dublin convention for refugees but the sheer numbers now have made it useless. So Hungary is in a frontline position taking in refugees – but then what?
When I was in Budapest, I went down to the Keleti station. This is where most of the refugees in Budapest amass – in the hopes of taking a train to their desired country. It is not that simple because they do not have the necessary visas obviously. The government has as yet failed to clarify any humane process for these people to follow. So Keleti station becomes a choking point every few days with thousands of refugees. The government has been making stop gap measures like sending buses to transport them to the border and so on.
Currently the Hungary-Austria-German border is open and Germany is taking in refugees but this cannot go on indefinitely.
Here I am quickly jotting down my observations of a quick visit to the Keleti train station in Budapest while I was there two days back. This is on 7th September, around 6.30pm to maybe 7.00pm. I don’t know whether it may actually help anyone but to a lot of people following the news – this may provide a glimpse into the place.
The time I visited was one of the lull phases. Most refugees had moved out and the other lot had not yet come. So this will mostly be a look at the place – some photos and little story.
Keleti station has an impressive facade and yet minimal when you enter.
The refugee area is one level lower than street level. And you can stand on the street and look down into it. Many people standing about and looking down.
I don’t know whether they were refugees or Hungary onlookers or homeless – guess a mix of all. There were also curious (and concerned) visitors like myself. Media vans and its crew added to the mix. A steady stream of public moving into the station to board trains, walking across, hanging out and also coming in with donations for the camp.
I saw these bunch of kids playing with a volunteer. They looked quite entertained and happy. It was good to see. There were also a few kids standing a bit away and they were being approached by friendly people to chat. It was nice.
I was observing when a young guy started talking to me. He seemed to be one of the refugee folk. I asked him where he was from. And it turns out he was a Pakistani refugee from Peshawar. And he claimed he wasn’t happy that I was the second Indian girl he ended up talking to today. He didn’t like India and hates Modi. I was somewhat amused and feeling weird about the situation. Of all people to meet, a Pakistani refugee and talk about India. 😀
Anyway, I asked him about his plans and he wanted to go to London. Considering the stand UK has on the refugee matter, I told him that seems quite tough, better Germany or Sweden. So far they are the only two countries who seem to be taking in refugees. Amid conversation, (what do you know!) another London born – Pakistani origin person joined our conversation. He was also just looking around like me. Anyway it was too quick a conversation to gauge exact details but it gave me an idea about how these Afghans and Pakistani refugees would be feeling marginalized considering all the attention is only on the Syrians. He had spent quite some time in Hungary – a few months I think. Already applied for asylum somewhere and gotten kicked out. Not entirely sure why he didn’t go off to Germany when the borders were open, but I sensed some more story there. But I didn’t get into a detailed conversation considering I would not really be following up or anything but I got a glimpse into complications and issues involved.
We had a light banter about how India & Pakistan were separated on a very political agenda. The London boy seemed to be telling this guy that India wasn’t bad but the politicians do a negative propaganda just so the citizens don’t look at their lapses.
In the background some heated argument broke out between a railway staff (I presume as they were wearing fluorescent vests) and an olderly man. One old fellow with some dried blood on his nose was roaming around and came and asked a cigarette from that London boy.
The children were laughing and playing in the background. And volunteers were moving about with some tasks here and there. So overall a lively scene. I liked that. A fair bit of chaos and some safety – was a good mix I felt at the time. But I think even with another 500 people the place would be packed. So thousands over there would be really chaotic. Let’s see what the government is planning, otherwise can be the beginning of a ghetto-situation. For now I felt good after seeing this place, there is a warmth created by the volunteers and friendly people who are there.